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July 10, 2005
It's Not Just Rivers that Flow in the Amazon... Iquitos, Peru
We returned to Iquitos by means of the same lightening boat that we´d used to get out to the lodge. It was just as quick but this time there was a pair of extra bodies aboard, the weight of which meant that on the few occasions we came in to contact with the water the spray was utterly enormous. I think we actually downed a pair nesting Toucans who thought they were safe in the canopy of the trees some 60 feet up in the air. Back, safe and sound, on terra firma we headed for the hotel that we´d booked for the night before flying out to Cusco via Lima early the next morning. Exceptional planning if you ask me. The only problem with exceptional planning is that basically two things can happen: It all goes perfectly and you can bask in a sea of smugness at just how bloody good at organizing things you are. Or, much more commonly, especially when it involves me, things go, well down the pan and this case, oh so literally.
We had a decent night out in Iquitos, pottering around, grabbing some decent eats and enjoying a few beers. All very pleasant. Then things started running, oh yes indeed, awry.
The first indication that things weren´t exactly right with me was a shooting pain through the stomach, followed in short order by some sharp pain afflicting the joints and fluctuating hot flushes and cold sweats. Normally I´d probably write this off as an iffy kebab, sadly I´ve been kebab free for some months now (could this in itself represent a problem?) so it couldn´t be the Donner. Clearly it wasn´t the beer; we hadn´t had that many and there wasn´t nearly time for my body to reduce me to this state of tragic hangover. It must have been something else. Something bad, nasty and probably from the Jungle, maybe the worlds largest parasite with a taste for the oh so tasty soft lining of tourist intestine.

Being a bloody decent bloke I thought I could get through this quietly without disturbing Heide. But why is it that whenever you try to be quiet you inevitably end up making more noise than a jet aircraft readying for take off? My tip toe to the bathroom involved more collisions with backpacks, table legs and indeed the bathroom door that you´d expect to see in a spectacularly poor slap stick comedy sketch. Remarkably this didn´t wake Heide, who clad in eye shades and fully bunged up with industrial strength ear plugs could have slept through World War III. What I was convinced she wouldn´t get through was the horrifying gurgling that was coming from my belly. It sounded like I´d swallowed an ancient espresso machine that was trying to prove it's worth and that it still could knock up a cappuccino but was failing miserably. This alas, was but the beginning. Things got worse and were heating up at both ends.
The thought of getting on a plane was, to say the least, not very appealing. Not just for me, I was thinking of the well being of a plane load of other passengers too. By now I was curled around the toilet and was almost wishing that I hadn´t eaten that burger that resembled steak tartare (but it tasted so good!) or had quaffed a few more beers and not so many mineral waters; knowing as I do that the exacting standards of Peruvian beer production would only allow the most crystal clear of aqua anywhere near their heavenly product. The only plus point was that my wonderful wife had selected a great hotel who had, with phenomenal foresight, seen the benefits of marble flooring. Ahh, the cooling nature of this stone was just delicious. Except when I was cold when I considered it perhaps the dumbest material in the world that should be used for sculpting images of David and exactly nothing else.

Then, just when I thought "I´m really in a bit of trouble here" I had a glorious vision. It was my own personal Florence Nightingale, doing a bloody good impression of Heide. With the kind of understated poignancy that really does enliven such situations, Heide said: "You don´t look too good!" I don´t think it was a sleight. It didn´t take long for her to asses the improbability of flying and it was at this point that the gloriously laid plans would have to be butchered and reformulated; though luckily not by me. As you know Heide is pretty bloody good at the planning sort of thing and so went into overdrive.
The small matter of altering the flight tickets, organising extra nights in the hotel, chatting with the pharmacist, finding a doc who might do house, well hotel, calls in a country where they don´t really do house calls and doing all this with just a smattering of tourist, high school, Spanish is impressive. Just not as impressive as the fact that she also had to complete the far, far more demanding task of unpeeling me from the toilet and draping me across the bed with my head in the bucket that she´d managed to blag from housekeeping.

As you know, I´m not exactly the biggest bloke in the world and really didn´t need a two day, up and down, purge of my innards, but that´s exactly what I got. I think I passed a camel. Not much fun either. Heide was good enough to leave me to my own devices and movements as she explored Iquitos, which she reliably informs me, is quite a nice town. Ahh, well, it´s all the fun of travel I suppose.
After a few days of being a thoroughly miserable bugger I perked up enough to fly and so, Heide, for the umpteenth time, chatted with her new best friends down at the Lan Peru office (and to you I extend I huge thank you, similarly to the absolutely wonderful, wonderful people at Muyana who were just immensely helpful) and we were set to leave the Amazon for the town at the heart, or in literal translation "navel" of the Inca empire, Cusco.
Next Entry: July 11, 2005
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This Page was last update: Saturday, July 16, 2005 at 3:17:34 PM
This page was originally posted: 7/16/2005; 1:16:39 PM.
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