Everything is closed in Athens. Apparently they are so far behind in their preparations for the 2004 Olympics that the only way they can make their deadline is by working around the clock.This ruined our plans to spend a day in the Greek National Archeological museum. So, instead we took an extended walk around the city and took in some of the non-touristy as well as the tourist neighborhoods. Our summary: Athens appears to be under construction.

This is not a beautiful city. The smog fills your nose and burns your eyes. Cabbies and really anyone with a moving vehicle tries to run you over if you dare cross the street. Sidewalks are lopsided, people are rude and in all but the "poshest" districts trash is strewn all over the streets. And the shoddy 60s architecture is grim. The amount of construction makes it appear that the city is trying to get it's act together in time for the big show next summer but we're not sure they are actually going to make it. ("No way in hell will they make the original plans." says Mark.)

If it weren't for the Acropolis, Athens wouldn't be worth visiting. Rising high above the city, the site houses the ruins of the "city of temples" created by Pericles some 4 to 5 hundred years B.C.. The Parthenon is impressive, but one can only imagine what it was like when it stood complete and in all it's glory. (Before Elgin got there,.... ha, ha, ha...) We visited the minor sites of Athens  (Ancient Agora, Temple of Athena of Nike, Theatre of Herodes Atticus) but, in our opinion, they all seemed to pale in comparison to the exceptional ruins that we saw in Efes, Turkey.

The most positive thing we can say about Athens is that we enjoyed the food! Gyros (kababs) for 1.30 euros, cheese pies and morning pastries, strong coffee, Greek salad, fried eggplant (aubergine) and tzatziki (stuff) were all particular favorites although we didn't encounter anything we didn't like.

We've decided to transit to Italy sooner rather than later -- we're traveling a bit fast for our liking, but this is what the ferry schedules dictate. We enjoyed the train ride down through the Peloponese, passing through ripe orange and lemon groves (in december!!) and beautiful mountan scenery. We're currently in Patras waiting for an overnight ferry to Brindisi, Italy.

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