From Dhakla Oasis out in the middle of nowhere, we took our remaining 41.75 Egyptian pounds and went to catch a bus. There are no banks with ATMs in Dhalka (or anywhere else in the Western Oases for that matter) and we didn't want to change cash for fear of bad exchange rates. The bus was delayed well over an hour due to a sandstorm... (standing on the corner waiting for a bus being sand blasted was a whole experience in and of itself) but finally it showed up. We piled on and headed out of town into the desert... and what did the driver want!? 42 Egyptian Pounds! We were 25pts short... about 5 cents.

In the end, it all worked out... somehow, miraculously we only had to pay 41 Egyptian pounds. It seems that 41 was actually enough.... hmm..... Still, it left us with 75pts of badly needed toilet tip money.  While the driver drove like someone from an action movie (passing trucks on blind curves at speeds so quick there were several times when I seriously thought the bus would turn over!) we had a conversation with a local who was desperately seeking an American bride. He was a bit weird, but if anyone's interested just drop us an e-mail. (Disclaimer: No responsibility will be assumed by us if we provide you with this guy's address!)

Attempting to make our exit from the bus in our destination of Asyut, the driver forced us to sit down and wait while everyone else went on their way. Was this all about the extra pound? Actually, and armed escort was "required" for traveling in the area... and it had yet to arrive to meet the bus.

The terrorist activity in Egypt during the mid-90s was strongly supported by factions in the middle Nile Valley. As a result, the government instituted a strong police presence in these areas and tightened their protection of tourists. Some of these excessive measures are still in place despite the ending of the violence.

One of the buss, however, we were anything but protected. Instead, we were run in circles by one "guard" after another until we finally walked away on our own heading for the nearest bank with an ATM. We replenished our cash stocks and were again offered and escort. "Offered" isn't quite the correct word.... we constantly heard the phrase, "Mister,... one minute! Please sit down!" It's amazing that we found our way to the hotel unguarded.

Our plan was to spend as little time possible at Asyut... basically sleep and take the first available train out the next morning to Aswan. Ooooops! Try again!! Tourists are only allowed on certain trains (despite a large number of trains on the Asyut to Aswan route)  and predictably those we could use were full. Excellent.... here we are imprisoned in the hotel.... we can't go out sight-seeing without a heavily armed convoy (as we had learned when we wanted to walk the 2 blocks from our hotel to the KFC just down the road.)  and the next available train was at half past midnight the next day! Let's just say we were glad we splurged and had a hotel with satellite TV. Made for TV movies are better than nothing!

Around 11:30 we went down to the lobby hoping that we'd be allowed to walk to the train station... ha, ha, ha! Mustafa, the tourist policeman's infectious laugh was almost enough to make the situation bearable. The police called on their mobile phones and talked on their walkie talkies but it wasn't until 12:15 that our "convoy" arrived. A police station wagon with 6 cops pulled up followed by a group of machine gun carrying tourist police in an armored vehicle. They hailed us a cab, the backpacks were slung on the roof rack, we were plonked in the back seat... an undercover policeman got in the front of the cab to "cover" the driver... and we were off. With a wave to Mustafa, the  police station wagon with sirens screaming pulled out into traffic while the armored vehicle followed every swerve and turn of the cab. Upon our arrival at the station,  we were rushed to our train by yet another guard where I'm happy to say we finally regained our freedom of movement! Aswan, here we come!!

Next Entry: January 27, 2004